1. PURPOSE-These instructions are intended
to show you how to install a Heavy-Duty residential garage
door in a prepared opening. Since the installation of this
garage door requires advanced mechanical skills, we urge you
to read the complete installation manual before beginning the
installation process. If you have any concerns about your
ability to properly install this door after you read the
instructions, we urge you to consult a professional installer
in your area.
NOTE: All instructions are
given from the point of view of someone inside looking
2. GETTING STARTED-Since the right tools
and supplies are essential for a safe and easy installment, we
have provided a list of basic tools that will be required for
installing this product. Tools marked with an (*) asterisk
will greatly improve the installation process.
Small hand ratchet and 7/16" 12-pt.
Locking pliers (vise-grips)
with 5/32" and 1/4 drill bits
7/8" hole saw (if using
Speed (crank) handle
7/16", 1/2" and 9/16"
Small step ladder
cold-rolled steel winding bars
Knife, tape measure,
Electric of air impact
Diagonal or wire cutters
Exterior paint (see painting details
on round label)
CHECKING THE MATERIALS-Using the lists
following, verify that you have the materials needed for this
installation and that there is no damage to anything from
packing, shipping, etc. If by chance you find any damaged or
missing item's, please contact your authorized dealer and the
problem will be resolved.
Several items are in opposite-handed pairs, and may or may not
be marked by LH or RH. Hinges and track brackets should be
stamped with a number with the smaller being mounted lower on
the door. Strut counts vary by door width, height, material,
gauge and track.
Your door package should include the following:
- Door sections, one with bottom weatherstrip.
- Track bundle (four pieces).
- Hardware carton.
- One or more lengths of punched angle. (optional)
- Three pieces of vinyl-edged door stop. (optional)
- One steel tubular shaft.
- One or two springs.*
- Zero to four steel reinforcement struts.*
*Varies by door size.
Your hardware carton should include the following.
10 (12 on 5-sect. door)
|3. Cable drums
||1 pair, left and right|
|4. End bearing plates
||1 pair, left and right|
|5. Center bearing plate
|6. Bottom cable/roller fixtures
||1 pair, left and right|
|7. Adjustable top fixtures
||2 (coiled together)|
|9. #5 Track brackets
|10. #6 Track brackets
|11. Track flag brackets
||1 pair, left and right|
|12. Grab handles
|13. Lock handle*
|14. Latch ass. bag*
|15. Pull rope*
|16. 2-Hole step plates*
|17. Bolt bag
*Items are used with manually operated doors
only. They are not supplied and should not be used with a door
||Number of stiles* (per
|#1 Hinge (5-sect. door only)
|#4 Hinge (5-sect. door only)
*A stile is a vertical structure on the back
of all sections that everything, even the face of the door
3. CHECKING THE OPENING-Check the wood
framing for firmness, especially the center pad that holds the
spring's main bracket. This short piece of wood (15" min.)
holds the entire force of the spring as it balances the door
's weight and tries to twist out from the wall at the bottom,
and into the wall at the top. Being short, it tends to split
readily so at this time we recommend you to lag (4-3" lag
screws), nail (6-16 pd. nails), or anchor (4-3" sleeve
anchors) it to the wall.
Always pre-drill holes so you won't split the wood. If by
chance you happen to split the wood, immediately replace it
with a quality wood.
Measure the garage opening. The height and width should not
be appreciably different than the nominal door size. If it
measures low, then the door pattern may be obscured by the
framing. If high or wide, then build the opening in with
appropriate material. If narrow, you run a risk of not having
enough wood to fasten the track brackets to.
You are now ready to set the stop
4. SETTING THE STOP-Tack the stop to each
side jamb and the header, flush with the inside edge of the
jamb and header. This will prevent the sections from falling
through the opening when you start stacking the sections.
You are not ready to build the
5. BUILDING THE SECTION-On this and the
following pages you will build the section from the bottom to
the top. This will enable you to stack the finished sections
in the opening in the correct order, from the bottom to the
Lay the sections face down on a pair of sawhorses (or clean
floor) with the upper edges away from you, top section first
(on the bottom of the stack) staggering or stepping them
The bottom section has a vinyl seal on it's lower edge, so
use this to determine the top and bottom edges of the sections
when stacking them.
Now that you have the sections in place, you are ready to
lay out the hardware on the sections. First, remove everything
from the hardware carton except the cable drums, bearing
plates, track brackets, and the track flag brackets. These
will be used in the installation later.
NOTE: All hardware in attached to the door
sections with 3/4" sheet metal lag screws. They require a
3/16" or 5/32" pre-drilled hold as they are not self-drilling.
The majority of these holes should be already drilled from the
Looking down on stacked sections.
6. BOTTOM SECTION-First attach the bottom
fixtures even with the bottom corners of the door section.
Next, attach the #1 hinges through the pre -drilled holes at
the top of all the stiles. If you have two or more struts,
attach one as low on the section as possible, but above the
rollers, using 2 lags per stile. Next, slip the looped cable
ends onto their studs on the bottom fixtures. Roll the excess
cable and tuck in under a stile for now. Next, cut the vinyl
bottom seal to the length of the section leaving an additional
1/2" on each end.
Next, put a roller at each corner of the section, 2 for the
hinges and 2 for the bottom fixtures.
7. SECTION #2-Attach the #2 hinge through
the pre-drilled holes at the top of both of the end stiles.
Next, attach #1 hinges on the center and intermediate stiles
the same way. If you have 3 or more struts attach one just
below the hinges using the above instructions.
Next, put a roller into each end hinge.
8. SECTION #3-Attach #3 hinges through the
pre-drilled holes at the top of both of the end stiles. Attach
#1 hinges on the center and intermediate stiles the same way.
If you have four struts, attach one just below the hinges
using 2 lags per stile.
Next, put a roller into each end hinge.
9. TOP SECTION-If the door has only one
strut, attach it across the top edge of the stiles using the
Next, locate the top edge of the adjustable top fixture
3-1/4" to 3-1/2" down from the top edge of the end stile and
fast. Insert a roller into each fixture.
10. LOCK-Since this is to be a
manually operated door, first decide which end of the door is
more accessible to you when entering the garage from the house
(usually better if it's the right side) and put the lock
there. Lag the snap latch exactly midway up the end stile of
the second section, pointed end out, and with the body of the
latch flush with the end of the panel. Drill a 1/4" pilot hole
clear through the next stile out from that end of the door
section, through the outside sheet metal. Drill this out to
7/8" (exactly), and mount the lock handle from outside with
the screws provided. The flange on this locking handle should
be horizontal, not vertical. If you tighten a screw too far
and it doesn't hold, back up with the spring steel keeper
provided. Turn the handle to the horizontal position and lock
From the inside, mount the inside plate over the square
handle stem that protrudes in. Turn this inner handle
clockwise as far as it will go. If you are on
the right end of the door, crimp the latch cable through the
upper handle hole. If on the left end, use the lower hole.
Crimp the other end of the cable to the snap latch hole,
keeping the cable fairly tight and trim off the excess cable.
Crimp the aluminum oval with a pair of vise grips.
You are now ready to assemble the
11. SHAFT ASSEMBLY-From the hardware
carton remove the cable drums, and the center bearing plate.
Start the set screws into the cable drums and springs. The
drums are marked LH and RH.
In order, slide the LH drum onto the tubular shaft, then
the right wound spring, the center bearing plate , the left
would spring and the RH drum. It is possible you may only have
one spring. The drum's set screws should face inward toward
the set screws in the winding cones on the ends of the
Bolt the springs together through the hole in the bearing
plate with 3/8" bolts. Check that the diagonal corner will be
down when the assembly is over the door. Attach the spring
caution tag to one of the 3/8" bolts. Hand tighten the set
screws to the shaft so the springs cannot slide on the
Torsion Spring Installation
You are now ready to assemble the
12. TRACK ASSEMBLY-Separate the track
bundles. The two curved pieces are the left and right
horizontals, the two straight ones are identical and make up
the left and right vertical assemblies.
NOTE: -While assembling, keep all nuts and bolts
To make the vertical assembly attach the #5 track bracket
to the lowest slotted hole set and the #6 track bracket to the
middle slotted hole set. For now the upper slotted hole set is
ignored. Next, attach the flag bracket through it's lower slot
to the TOP most two holes in the track. The
flanges of these three brackets should extend outward away
from the door and not inward behind the track. The inside cup
of the track should open inward toward the door. Assemble the
vertical for the other side of the door so that when finished
the two are mirror images of each other.
Attach the horizontals to the verticals. Connect the
horizontal to the flag bracket with one 3/8" bolt. Align the
horizontal and vertical sections at the flag bracket and
attach the horizontal to the upper slot in the flag bracket.
When tight the horizontal and vertical sections should be a
square. Next, attach the end bearing plate to the horizontal
track so when attached the flange is even with the flag
bracket and pointing away from the door. Tighten
Repeat for other side. When finished they should be mirror
images of one another.
You are now ready to stack the door
13. STACKING THE DOOR-Center the bottom
section in the garage opening and hold the section in place
with nails driven into the jamb and bent over against the
section. Next, using a level, shim the panel at one end until
dead level. Place each section in the opening on top of the
previous section checking and adjusting for level each time.
Finally, affix hinges and rollers to each succeeding
You should now have the complete door in the opening with
all rollers in place. It should look exactly like this.
You are now ready to track the door
NOTE:-Before tracking the door we recommend you get another
person to help you as this can be very difficult and possibly
dangerous if done incorrectly.
14. TRACKING THE DOOR-First, straighten
all rollers and drape the cables up behind them to get the
cable out of the way. Work the right track
assembly around the rollers. Using 5/16" x 1-1/2" lags, mark,
pre-drill, and attach the track brackets to the wall. The
track should be vertical with 1/2" clearance between it's
inner edge and the door all the way up. With the track
secured, lag down the flap bracket with three lags, keeping it
vertical. Pull out the nails holding that side of the door up
and move this side of the track forward or backward
(remembering the adjustable slotted holes on the track
brackets) until you have about 1/2" clearance between the face
of the door and the jamb. Tighten all the track bolts.
Repeat this for the left side of the door.
You are now ready to mount the springs
15. SPRING MOUNTING-Place the stepladder
at the center of the door. Center the springs on the shaft
assembly, making sure to set at least one set screw so that it
won't slide. Standing at the base of the ladder, place one end
of the shaft on the horizontal track at the end bearing plate
and climb the ladder. Place the end of the shaft into the end
bearing plate, sliding it until the other end of the shaft can
be set into its bearing.
there is not enough clearance you may have to cut a few (no
more than 5) inches off the shaft.
With the shaft entered (equal amounts of shaft left out of
the end bearings), raise the springs until the shaft is
level and mark the holes of the center plates
flange onto the wood center pad.
NOTE:-If you plan to install a garage door
opener in the future, offset the center flange so the base of
the opener can be mounted.
Pre-drill two 1/4" holes. Fasten the center bearing plate
to the spring pad with 5/16" x 2-1/2" lags.
You are now ready to set the cables and
16. SETTING THE CABLES AND DRUMS-Set the
LH drum tight against the bearing and tighten the two set
screws. Bring the cable up to the drum, checking for a
straight run from the bottom fixture with no interference. Set
the bottom end of the cable into the slot on the drum. Turn
the drum, top toward you and down, and keep the cable firmly
in the groove that starts at the slot until the cable is tight
enough to strum. Use vise grips on the shaft, wedging their
end against the wall or the ceiling to hold the cable, drum
and shaft tight.
Put the right hand cable in the RH drum, turning it on the
shaft as before to tension the cable , then tighten the set
screws. The rolling action of the set screws on this drum
lends to tighten the drum further, so "pluck" both cables when
you are finished to see if they are about the same tension. If
the tension is OK and the door still sets level you may go on
to the next step. If not, re-adjust the RH drum until they are
close in adjustment.
You are now ready to wind the springs
17. WINDING THE SPRINGS-The holes on the
winding end of the spring have been drilled for 1/2"
diameter cold rolled steel 15" winding bars (not
included). Never use vise grips, pipe wrenches, socket
extensions, screwdrivers, rebar, or anything else to wind the
springs except the proper winding bars. They should be dressed
fully into any of the holes on the spring end. Stand on the
ladder off to the side of the springs so that
if a bar slips or a casting breaks, the spinning spring won't
fling the bar into you. Never stand in front of the
springs when winding.
Wind the springs up. It will seem that you are trying to
screw the cast end out of the spring, but it only gets
tighter. You wind by inserting a bar into a hole on the
casting and cranking the spring out and up. Count the turns
according to the following guide. While firmly holding the
winding bar, turn down the set screws until they contact the
shaft, and then 1-1/2 to 2 turns more. Do not touch
ANY set screw on a spring without a winding
bar firmly in place. Remove the vise grips and wind the other
spring the same amount. If the door seems unduly springy or
"fast," ease off on the stronger spring as much as one full
turn. The door should rise smoothly without flying up or
without setting on the floor.
You are now ready to install the back
18. TRACK BACK-HANGS-Gently allow the door
to open half way, making sure your horizontal tracks are not
too wide, or the door will fall out of the tracks. Center the
door in the opening and use your hammer to straighten the
horizontal tracks by rapping them at each roller, and recheck
centering, keeping in mind that the track should rise from
1/2" to 1-1/2" at the rear. Measure the drop from the ceiling
and cut the perforated angle accordingly. The drops should be
straight and plumb, both front to back and side to side so you
will probably have to drill a hole in the track somewhere
other than the very end.
Use the 5/16" bolts for the back hangs, and when done put
one more bolt through the last hole in the track, pointing
inside this time to stop the top roller from rolling out the
track should the door be opened too hard.
Mount a diagonal kicker made from perforated angle to the
back hangs at a 30 to 45 degree angle to the inside of the
A finished ceiling will call for a piece of angle fastened
to the hidden joists through the sheet rock, and as before, it
is essential that you pre-drill all lag holes to avoid
splitting the hidden wood in this critical area. Use a 5/16" x
2-1/2" lag screw when applying angle to sheet rock.
You are now ready for the final door
19. FINAL DOOR CHECK-Run the door up and
down several times, slowly as well as quickly to test for
smoothness and quietness. If you have the poly rollers, don't
lubricate the track. If you have the steel rollers, lightly
lubricate the track and the roller bearings with an oil (never
a grease) every six months.
After the door installation is complete, adjust the stop to
the door in the closed position by placing the stop flush
against the door and lightly push on the door to make sure the
pressure from the stop will not hinder the door's movement.
Nail the stop to the jamb with galvanized nails, every
Drill two holes through the face of the door and mount the
two grab handles back to back, one inside and one outside.
Bolt the strike plate to the track with track bolts. Remove
this piece if you later motorize the door. Adjust the
clearance of the latch and plate by moving the vertical track
in or out at the center track bracket so they engage and
disengage smoothly (Refer to Step #10 for location).